You know you are somewhere special when one of the first
things you see when stepping off the airport bus are sea lions sleeping on a
park bench. But such is life in the Galapagos that such scenes are commonplace.
The isolation of the islands has resulted in its wild inhabitants never having
developed a fear of mankind. To the indigenous birds and other animals we are
simply a large, benign moving object that may occasionally provide a useful
perch. The only reaction a human is likely to engender is a look of mild
curiosity and a reluctant shuffling out of the way when you are close to
treading on a wayward foot or flipper. It is a world apart from the everyday
and is simply unique.
We were very fortunate to be able to spend 10 days there as
part of our recent trip to Ecuador and Peru. The first week was spent cruising
around the eastern islands on a very comfortable medium sized yacht. Life on
board settled into the routine of breakfast followed by a trip on a Panga
(inflatable dingy to you and me) to land on one of the islands. Here we would hike/snorkel/kayak
our way around and marvel at the scenery and wildlife. Late morning would see a
return to the boat, lunch and an hour or two relaxing to avoid the intense
afternoon heat. During this period we would move to another location where we
would again set foot ashore for further delights. In this way we covered most
of the eastern archipelago seeing first-hand the way in which the islands are developing
and how each holds its own unique plant life and associated fauna.
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preening itself was a Galapagos penguin – the only penguin to actually occur in the Northern Hemisphere (good pub quiz trivia that one). And most poignantly we walked on the very beach where Darwin first made landfall and there all around saw the finches and mockingbirds that enticed him to develop his theory of evolution.
And then of course there were those frigate birds, pictures
of which had entranced me as a young lad. Could a bird really have such a
disproportionate large and startlingly bright red throat pouch? Well I’m
pleased to report the answer is most certainly yes. These huge angular and
prehistoric looking birds can be seen all over the islands with two species
present and breeding. We spent an hour watching a colony of great frigate birds
on Genovesa Island. Here the males would puff up their throats and quiver their
outstretched wings whenever a likely looking female passed overhead. Even those
males already paired didn’t seem to be able to stop themselves trying it on
with any other gal that just happened by. Immature birds would content
themselves with harassing any
passing red-footed booby that was carrying nesting material. Spectacular dog-fights took place all around as the poor booby tried to shake off as many as five or six larger and aggressive pursuers. A sea bird colony is always lively, but when you’re amidst a colony of frigate birds with 7 feet wingspans flying within feet of your head the experience reaches new heights. I could have stayed all day!
passing red-footed booby that was carrying nesting material. Spectacular dog-fights took place all around as the poor booby tried to shake off as many as five or six larger and aggressive pursuers. A sea bird colony is always lively, but when you’re amidst a colony of frigate birds with 7 feet wingspans flying within feet of your head the experience reaches new heights. I could have stayed all day!
All too soon our cruise was over, but to milk a little more we spent a few days relaxing on Isabela Island. Palm trees swaying in a gentle tropical breeze, lulled to sleep by the soporific sound of the Pacific waves breaking on the beach and yet more interesting scenery and wildlife; you get the picture I’m sure. We had seen it all on TV, but nothing prepares you for the life event that is the Galapagos Islands. One more thing from the bucket list ticked off. Now for Peru and Machu Picchu….
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