Despite
the city being graced with crystal clear air, there’s a mist over the marshes;
the flatlands of eastern Norfolk that were covered in ancient times by the
brooding North Sea. Parts of this area rest below today’s sea level and are
ever threatened with flooding from storm surges and spring tides. We’re
standing by a gate overlooking a field of rough grass and sedge, a field
shrouded in a white veil through which we can dimly make out the ethereal
shapes of water deer, dog like in form and very much at home here. Count them -
two, four, six, eight - already paired and feasting on the sedges of the damp
meadows. Our friend the sun is winning the battle with the curtain of water
vapour, burning it off by degrees to reveal more of the panorama. Where a short
time ago there was a sheet of haze, there now appears the vague outlines of
drainage mills, a clump of stunted trees, lines of fence posts, distant houses,
a flint built church and the bare masts of sailing dinghies moored up for the
winter. In these lands of sweeping vistas and wide open skies, small
inconsequential things take on new meaning. The mills become statuesque;
isolated trees and hedges coveted highways, shelter and nest sites; gates and
fences assume the role of song post, resting spots, gathering points and
lookout. In the still, peaceful air the slightest sound travels a great
distance. A barking dog from the village over a mile distant, the faint whistle
of a train on tracks laid at least double that distance, and all around the
joyous songs of skylarks rising upwards to greet the revealed flawless blue
dome of late winter.
9.30am.
Why are we standing here you may wonder, why this particular spot? Rumour has it that this field of rough
grasses is a favoured hunting area for short-eared owls: golden plumaged
hunters of wide open spaces. They vacate their summer homes of northern
moorland to seek sanctuary in this somewhat milder wilderness where they
plunder the high density of rodents to sate their appetites. It’s a waiting
game, but with luck we may see one. We tarry for an hour, the mist is finally
swept away, the temperature rises but still no owl. Two ladies, fellow bird and
photography enthusiasts, good company, decide to wander along to the next field
to see if they can spot anything. Before long they return to tell us that they
have indeed spotted a roosting owl, not 100yards from where we stand. And there
it is sitting motionless amidst a clump of sedge grass, cryptic colouration
making it all but invisible to the naked eye. With the aid of optics it is
possible to see the bird twisting its head this way and that, alert to every
sound and movement. After perhaps 30 minutes it shuffles away out of sight,
seemingly reluctant to treat us to any form of aerial display. We have to get
going, and reluctantly retrace our steps, resolving to return later in the day
to see if our luck will change.
3pm:
the sun has curved round in its low arc to shine from directly behind us,
illuminating the field with a soft golden light. The waiting cast has changed,
the ladies from this morning replaced by two chaps that we have seen before but
can’t place. We chat, introductions are made and all becomes clear: one is a
regular visitor to Strumpshaw and the peregrine watch point; the other a man
met just the once over 40 years ago, but somehow the memory stuck. It’s good to
share the appreciation of this place with others of like mind. The owls were
flying earlier but have now disappeared. No matter, there is always something
else to see and admire. A casual scan of the marshes shows a buzzard sitting
patiently atop a gatepost, and a short distance away a sparrowhawk doing the
same. A marsh Harrier lazily hunts over the reeds and as we track its progress there
beneath it is surely something different? Yes, there’s no doubt it’s an owl, a
short-earned owl beating its way along the far distant river wall, frustratingly
heading away from us and soon lost to view. Nothing for it but to wait
patiently and chat about birds and cameras, cameras and birds; tales of
successes and laments for the one that got away. Any avian movement attracts
attention and another buzzard appears making a direct line to the one idling on
the fence. A brief tussle ensues and whilst snapping those antagonists an owl
apparently flies into our field and drops down out of sight. Now our waiting
has a stronger purpose for we know the birds are near at hand and must surely hunt
soon now the light is slowly fading.
The sun
wanes, our shadows lengthen. Lines of cormorants snake across the sky, coming
from a days fishing in coastal waters and heading for their roost at nearby
Ranworth. Hundreds stream overhead, their numbers making dotted letters in the
blue. It is getting late and one of our party decides to leave. He retreats ten
paces when the owl gets up. Call him back and we watch and snap away at this
gorgeous bird as it sweeps to and fro over the meadow before purposefully
winging its way out of our sight. A lovely moment, but there was more to come.
A second owl flies up from cover and this one spends more time beating a path
around the edge of the field, hovering periodically before plunging into the
grass after some unseen prey. It doesn’t seem to catch anything and it too
eventually retires to seek more profitable hunting grounds. The few minutes of
action caught on camera, impressed in the memory, worth every idle second spent
scanning the marsh.
It’s
now past 4pm and we’re alone. The buzzard flies towards the distant woodland
there to roost, trailing a mobbing crow and common gull in its wake. The sun is
beginning to set, a slight chill stings the air. And there in the deep honey
coloured light the owls return, a pair of them chancing their luck once more
with their favoured hunting patch. They don’t come as close as we hope, but the
sight of them flying directly towards us with glaring bright yellow eyes will
remain etched in our memory. Every detail of their spangled plumage displayed
to perfection in the late afternoon light. We watch until it is really too dark
to see clearly before making our contented way back to the village with a
decided spring in our step. Worth it wouldn’t you say?
We leave the marshes to the owls and the deer,
the hares and the geese. The mist will form overnight to present another eerily
veiled dawn, but for now we pause only to admire the sinking red orb reflected
in the waters of this magical wetland.
Beautiful writing: beautiful photos! One of my favourite spots...
ReplyDeleteThanks David. It is a lovely spot, hope to go back soon and try for some better pics.
ReplyDelete